Kenny Ferenchak, Resolve Uganda's lead researcher in Uganda, writes about dynamics on the ground:

The signs are clear: bustling construction sites, radical roadway improvements, massive landscaping projects, and billboards galore. Everyone in Uganda is hurrying to put the final touches on preparations for the upcoming Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM) to take place in Kampala this 23-25 November. Every two years a member of the British Commonwealth is chosen to host this prestigious international summit at which leaders from the 53 member states gather to focus on issues facing the Commonwealth community. Obviously this is a great opportunity for the host country to show off its grandeur to the entire world, and Uganda is no exception as it plans for the Queen of England’s first visit to the country since its independence in 1962.

The catchphrase on posters and paraphernalia across the country is "Are You Ready for CHOGM?" Immediately upon my arrival at Entebbe Airport, I noticed the progress that has been made since I left last September: flowers lining the airport entrance, sewage lines neatly following the roadways, and traffic signals that truly control the traffic at intersections! The national excitement is reflected in huge billboards all over the capital and along roadsides nationwide depicting local celebrities, from recording artists to international athletes, proudly stating, "I Am Ready for CHOGM."

As has long been the case, however, the story of CHOGM highlights the continuing story of two Uganda’s. For every freshly paved road, blooming flower garden, and new 5-star resort I passed on the road from Entebbe to Kampala, there was a deepening pothole, overgrown field, and crumbling IDP camp on the northern road to Gulu.

No one can deny the successes of the past year brought by the Juba peace talks, millions of dollars poured into the rehabilitation of the north, and (most inspiring) the gradual movement of people back to their land, if even for only a few hours each day to farm. This shows progress, but in no way is the situation across the north any less of an emergency when levels of absolute poverty remain above 60%, HIV infection rates remain among the highest in the country, and access to health and education facilities is simply dreadful in many areas. And beyond all of that, most in the most heavily-affected regions still remain hesitant to move back to their original lands out of fears of insecurity.

Meanwhile, 'Uganda' readies itself for CHOGM. The theme for this year’s meeting is quite inspiring, in fact: "Transforming Commonwealth Societies to Achieve Political, Economic, and Human Development." The Queen and all other dignitaries are certain to see a real transformation of society for development on that road from Entebbe to Kampala—but can this really be the same nation that has been torn apart by violence since its independence, the same country that is still home to tens of thousands of internally displaced persons in its northern regions only a few hours up the road from Kampala?

It is difficult to imagine among all the lavish dinners and pretty gardens this November that those camp-dwellers and victims of human rights violations will have an adequate chance to have their stories heard, but who really knows? Maybe civil society will grab the attention of the Commonwealth’s leaders forcing them to look at the causes and effects of a real lack of development in the north, and maybe the international media will wander beyond Kampala to make its way to the camps and rehabilitation centers in Acholiland.

Or perhaps more likely, the desire to hang onto the last remnants of this fading Commonwealth institution will move host and visitors to expend all energy to ensure a successful meeting, even at the cost of leaving millions of voices unheard. There is one certainty, however, that was promised by LC5 Chairman Norbert Mao this past week: we’re not going to see any of those "I Am Ready for CHOGM" billboards in an IDP camp anytime soon.